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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.